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Surf on the Left?

  • Writer: MT Penny
    MT Penny
  • Mar 24, 2022
  • 2 min read


Hello Hatters,

Recently, I visited the beach. Much about this visit was familiar like the ferry ride, tourists, shops, and restaurants. What I didn't expect to see on the beach were the waves high enough for surfers. It's been a long time since I've had time to delightfully watch the efforts of both the novice and the experienced surfer. The big pier by which I parked sliced the waves. The number of surfers on each side of the pier was oddly the same, five. Mid morning brought the biggest waves and more attempts to ride them. Chances dimmed as the morning slipped away to noon.


I saw a surfer from the right try to go under the pier to get to what seemed to him like bigger waves on the left. His efforts were unsuccessful, so he stayed on the right. Soon enough, good waves came his way and he had several successful rides. It reminded me of the saying, "the grass is greener on the other side of the fence." In this case, the fence was a hard to maneuver pier with waves capable of thrusting him into barnacle covered beams beneath the water. It was not worth the risk. Much wisdom to glean from that choice. Don't be afraid to take risks, but weigh the options carefully. Choose wisely.


My favorite surfer took the perfect wave from way out and rode it all the way to the shore. He moved seamlessly with the wave as though there was a special bond between the three: the board, the wave, and the man. In fact, the bond was experience and pure joy. I saw the smile of accomplishment on his face. I waved to him and gave him thumbs up. As he got closer to my eyes, I was saw some gray hair which made sense to me. I watched him walk towards a van which was large enough to carry the big board. With great care, he slipped his board into a sleeve of sorts for protection. I made no presumption that the flawless ride I witnessed was not preceded by many trials and falls throughout the years.

I enjoy watching someone master an art or sport knowing that it took practice and sacrifice to make the journey. Did that surfer pick the left side of the pier on purpose? Perhaps. Did he watch the waves before picking a side? Had chance smiled on the driver of the van for an empty parking place on the left? As a writer who wears many hats just like you, I pick up treasures on the beach and this time, I'm not talking about the shells in my pocket. Is the grass greener? Is practice worth it to the master? On a whimsical note, why do tug boats carry that name when they actually push the barges?

I love asking rhetorical questions. It perks up my mind and takes me into a favorite place of wonderment.

MT Penny

 
 
 

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1 comentario


arkdar1114
25 mar 2022

Ye ol' beachcomber, you😍


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